Frame (Stainless Steel)
Picture glass or single weight glass should always be used. This
can be obtained from most framing or hardware dealers, who will cut it for
you if you are not using a stock size.
This framing system is designed for the use of 3/16” thick Styrofoam board
(also called art foam display board). Other materials can be used, but
they are usually heavy and flimsy rather than light and rigid. The cutting
of Styrofoam board is best accomplished with the use of a
steel-ruler/straightedge and a razor knife with a sharp, new blade. NEVER
use a dull blade to cut Styrofoam board – it will tear and/or crumble.
Practice on a scrap until you can get a clean, smooth cut. If you use mats
that build up a thickness greater than the clamp opening, simply pinch or
crimp the Styrofoam board at the points where the brace tips rest.
Styrofoam board is self-healing; it will re-expand to the proper thickness
to form a snug framing package within the frame.
Determine which adjustment of the braces will best support the
proportions of your print. For example, a square print would have equal
legs on the braces, whereas a rectangular print is more securely supported
by unequal legs.
Bolt braces together as shown.
NOTE: String must always be wrapped around
cleat at point where cleat and flat join.
Place braces on the glass/print/board framing package and be very
careful to keep the brace tips at 90 degrees to the edge of the glass so
that the glass will not be chipped.
Secure one end of the wire cable through one eye of the spring.
Place the spring between the two corner braces at the bottom of the print
and place the wire cable under the bevel of all bolt heads on all the
braces, then draw wire through the other end of the spring. Stretch the
spring slightly and secure the end of the wire.
The picture is now ready to hang. Your
nail or picture hook (use two if you are hanging a large print) should
suspend the print from the wire across the top,
between the two top braces (opposite the spring at the bottom of the